From litter tray to scratching post:
a starter kit for a happy cat
Getting a cat is a happy event that brings comfort and new emotions into the home.
From litter tray to scratching post:
a starter kit for a happy cat
A cat doesn't need complicated equipment, but it does need a well-thought-out 'minimum of comfort':
a safe space, an obvious toilet, access to water and food, somewhere to sharpen its claws, and privacy. The sooner you create these conditions, the more relaxed the settling-in period will be: no night-time concerts, no 'surprises' next to the litter tray and no ruined sofa. Below is what's really worth buying and why, followed by tips for different situations: a kitten, an adult cat, a rescue cat and a pedigree cat from a breeder.
A cat doesn't need complicated equipment, but it does need a well-thought-out 'minimum of comfort':
a safe space, an obvious toilet, access to water and food, somewhere to sharpen its claws, and privacy. The sooner you create these conditions, the more relaxed the settling-in period will be: no night-time concerts, no 'surprises' next to the litter tray and no ruined sofa. Below is what's really worth buying and why, followed by tips for different situations: a kitten, an adult cat, a rescue cat and a pedigree cat from a breeder.
The first journey:
how to bring your cat home safely
The moment you collect your cat for the first time is special: your new family member is setting off on its first journey to your home. How comfortable and safe the journey is will affect its mood, its stress levels and even how quickly it gets used to its new home.
Never let a cat travel on your lap or in a bag —
it isn't safe for the cat or for you.
it isn't safe for the cat or for you.
A carrier is essential 'transport' for your furry passenger. But how do you choose the right model so that both you and your cat feel safe? Let's go through it.
The first journey:
how to bring your cat home safely
The moment you collect your cat for the first time is special: your new family member is setting off on its first journey to your home. How comfortable and safe the journey is will affect its mood, its stress levels and even how quickly it gets used to its new home.
Never let a cat travel on your lap or in a bag: it isn't safe for the cat or for you.
A carrier is essential 'transport' for your furry passenger. But how do you choose the right model so that both you and your cat feel safe? Let's go through it.
Fabric carriers —
light and foldable, handy for short trips and public transport, but they protect your pet less well in a collision.
Average price in the UK:
about £20
about £20
Hard plastic carriers —
They are reliable, protect the cat well and are suitable
for trips to the vet or on public transport.
for trips to the vet or on public transport.
Average price in the UK:
about £15–30
about £15–30
1
Size and comfort
The carrier should be big enough for the cat to turn round, lie down and sit comfortably. Compact models suit kittens; for adult cats choose carriers at least 45–50 cm long and wide.
2
Material and durability
1
Size and comfort
The carrier should be big enough for the cat to turn round, lie down and sit comfortably. Compact models suit kittens; for adult cats choose carriers at least 45–50 cm long and wide.
2
Material
and durability
and durability
The carrier should be big enough for the cat to turn round, lie down and sit comfortably. Compact models suit kittens; for adult cats choose carriers at least 45–50 cm long and wide.
Hard plastic carriers:
They are reliable, protect the cat well and are suitable for trips to the vet or on public transport.
Average price in the UK:
about £15–30
about £15–30
Fabric carriers:
light and foldable, handy for short trips and public transport, but they protect your pet less well in a collision.
Average price in the UK:
about £20
about £20
3
Type of design
Front door —
the classic option: easy to open and close and easy to get the cat out.
Top opening —
handy for kittens and nervous animals: you can lower your pet in gently without hurting it.
On wheels —
handy on long journeys, but not always stable on uneven ground.
3
Type of design
Front door —
the classic option: easy to open and close and easy to get the cat out.
Top opening —
handy for kittens and nervous animals: you can lower your pet in gently without hurting it.
On wheels —
handy on long journeys, but not always stable on uneven ground.
4
Safety
Check the locks and catches so that the cat can't get out by accident. Make sure the carrier is stable and the base is firm and doesn't bend.
5
Ventilation
and view
and view
Good ventilation is essential: mesh panels or openings let air circulate. Cats like to see what's going on around them while still feeling protected.
6
Easy to clean
Ideally the base of the carrier is covered with washable material or has a removable tray. This makes cleaning easier if there is an 'accident' on the way.
7
Extras
Put a soft blanket inside so that your cat feels comfortable and less nervous on the journey. For extra reassurance, you can add a favourite toy or a cloth that smells of home.
4
Safety
Check the locks and catches so that the cat can't get out by accident. Make sure the carrier is stable and the base is firm and doesn't bend.
5
Ventilation
and view
and view
Good ventilation is essential: mesh panels or openings let air circulate. Cats like to see what's going on around them while still feeling protected.
6
Easy to clean
Ideally the base of the carrier is covered with washable material or has a removable tray. This makes cleaning easier if there is an 'accident' on the way.
7
Extras
Put a soft blanket inside so that your cat feels comfortable and less nervous on the journey. For extra reassurance, you can add a favourite toy or a cloth that smells of home.
Bed and safety:
where your cat may go
and where it may not
and where it may not
Start with a place where your cat can sleep and hide. Even sociable pets usually keep quiet and watch from cover for the first few days. A covered bed, or a soft mat or cushion in a 'quiet corner', solves this.
Put a water fountain or a heavy bowl nearby: moving water encourages drinking and is good for the kidneys. Look around your home with an explorer's eyes: hide cables, put away string and elastic bands, and block access to chemicals and houseplants (more on those below).
If you have balconies or open windows, make sure they are secured with sturdy cat-proof mesh that can withstand a jump.
Put a water fountain or a heavy bowl nearby: moving water encourages drinking and is good for the kidneys. Look around your home with an explorer's eyes: hide cables, put away string and elastic bands, and block access to chemicals and houseplants (more on those below).
If you have balconies or open windows, make sure they are secured with sturdy cat-proof mesh that can withstand a jump.
Bed
and safety:
and safety:
where your cat may go and where it may not
Start with a place where your cat can sleep and hide. Even sociable pets usually keep quiet and watch from cover for the first few days. A covered bed, or a soft mat or cushion in a 'quiet corner', solves this.
Put a water fountain or a heavy bowl nearby: moving water encourages drinking and is good for the kidneys. Look around your home with an explorer's eyes: hide cables, put away string and elastic bands, and block access to chemicals and houseplants (more on those below).
Put a water fountain or a heavy bowl nearby: moving water encourages drinking and is good for the kidneys. Look around your home with an explorer's eyes: hide cables, put away string and elastic bands, and block access to chemicals and houseplants (more on those below).
If you have balconies or open windows, make sure they are secured with sturdy cat-proof mesh that can withstand a jump. Put a water fountain or a heavy bowl nearby: moving water encourages drinking and is good for the kidneys. Look around your home with an explorer's eyes: hide cables, put away string and elastic bands, and block access to chemicals and houseplants (more on those below).
If you have balconies or open windows, make sure they are secured with sturdy cat-proof mesh that can withstand a jump.
If you have balconies or open windows, make sure they are secured with sturdy cat-proof mesh that can withstand a jump.
4
Easy to clean
It's important that the bed is easy to clean: removable cushions, washable covers or smooth surfaces make care simpler.
5
Where to put
the bed
the bed
Place the bed in a quiet corner, away from draughts and busy areas. Cats love high places, so beds on a windowsill or on multi-level platforms are also a good choice.
6
Extras
Put a soft blanket inside: cats love comfort and warmth. If you have several pets, it's better to have several beds so that each cat has its own space.
Open beds and cushions —
suit cats that like to watch what's going on around them.
Average price in the UK:
about £20–35
about £20–35
Carrier beds —
combine a shelter and a carrier and are handy for trips to the vet.
Average price in the UK:
about £35
about £35
Covered beds
(hideaways) —
(hideaways) —
create a sense of security; ideal for anxious cats.
Average price in the UK:
about £20
about £20
3
Type of bed
1
Size and comfort
The bed should be roomy enough for your cat to turn round freely and settle down to sleep. Small beds suit kittens; for adult cats it's better to choose models at least 40–50 cm high and wide.
2
Material
The best options are soft fabrics with padding, wood, plywood or plastic. Fabric beds are cosy and warm; wooden ones are more stable and durable. Avoid surfaces that are too hard or slippery.
1
Size and comfort
The bed should be roomy enough for your cat to turn round freely and settle down to sleep. Small beds suit kittens; for adult cats it's better to choose models at least 40–50 cm high and wide.
2
Material
The best options are soft fabrics with padding, wood, plywood or plastic. Fabric beds are cosy and warm; wooden ones are more stable and durable. Avoid surfaces that are too hard or slippery.
3
Type of bed
Covered beds
(hideaways) —
(hideaways) —
create a sense of security; ideal for anxious cats.
Average price in the UK:
about £20
about £20
Open beds and cushions —
suit cats that like to watch what's going on around them.
Average price in the UK:
about £20–35
about £20–35
Carrier beds —
combine a shelter and a carrier and are handy for trips to the vet.
Average price in the UK:
about £35
about £35
4
Easy to clean
It's important that the bed is easy to clean: removable cushions, washable covers or smooth surfaces make care simpler.
5
Where to put
the bed
the bed
Place the bed in a quiet corner, away from draughts and busy areas. Cats love high places, so beds on a windowsill or on multi-level platforms are also a good choice.
6
Extras
Put a soft blanket inside: cats love comfort and warmth. If you have several pets, it's better to have several beds so that each cat has its own space.
Food and water:
bowls without the guesswork
At the start, what matters most isn't the brand of food but organising feeding properly. Get two bowls straight away: one for food and one for water. Ceramic or stainless steel is best: they are heavy, don't slide and don't absorb smells. Plastic scratches quickly and can harbour bacteria, so avoid it.
To make things easier, buy a measuring cup in advance (it helps you control portions) and an airtight container for dry food, so that it stays fresh longer.
An ordinary bowl is fine for water too, but if you notice your cat drinks little, consider a water fountain: moving water usually interests pets more.
To make things easier, buy a measuring cup in advance (it helps you control portions) and an airtight container for dry food, so that it stays fresh longer.
An ordinary bowl is fine for water too, but if you notice your cat drinks little, consider a water fountain: moving water usually interests pets more.
Food and water:
bowls without the guesswork
At the start, what matters most isn't the brand of food but organising feeding properly. Get two bowls straight away: one for food and one for water. Ceramic or stainless steel is best: they are heavy, don't slide and don't absorb smells. Plastic scratches quickly and can harbour bacteria, so avoid it.
To make things easier, buy a measuring cup in advance (it helps you control portions) and an airtight container for dry food, so that it stays fresh longer.
An ordinary bowl is fine for water too, but if you notice your cat drinks little, consider a water fountain: moving water usually interests pets more.
An ordinary bowl is fine for water too, but if you notice your cat drinks little, consider a water fountain: moving water usually interests pets more.
Hold off on treats. In the first few days it's more important for your cat to settle in than to try everything at once. Later, choose treats with a short ingredients list and count them in the daily ration.
Hold off on treats. In the first few days it's more important for your cat to settle in than to try everything at once. Later, choose treats with a short ingredients list and count them in the daily ration.
1
Material
At first glance a cat's bowl is a small thing. But in practice your pet's comfort, health and even appetite depend on it.
Ceramic bowls are one of the best options. They are heavy and stable, so your cat won't push them across the floor while eating. Ceramics are easy to clean, don't absorb smells and don't change the taste of food or water, and a good glaze stops bacteria from building up.
Average price in the UK: about £8
Ceramic
Metal
Plastic
Ceramic
Metal
Plastic
Stainless steel is another good choice. These bowls are hard-wearing, unbreakable, don't absorb smells and are easy to care for. They are easy to wash without special tools and last for years.
Average price in the UK: about £6
Ceramic
Metal
Plastic
Ceramic
Metal
Plastic
Plastic bowls are the cheapest, but that's exactly the catch. Plastic has several serious drawbacks:
- Scratches. Over time the surface becomes covered in tiny scratches that trap food and water, an ideal breeding ground for bacteria.
- Smell and taste. Plastic easily absorbs smells and can even give food an unpleasant taste, which may make your cat eat less or refuse the bowl altogether.
- Allergies and acne. In some cats plastic causes allergic reactions: inflammation of the chin and spots (so-called feline acne).
- Durability. Plastic bowls soon look worn, become cloudy and scratched, and need replacing more often.
Ceramic
Metal
Plastic
Ceramic
Metal
Plastic
1
Material
At first glance a cat's bowl is a small thing. But in practice your pet's comfort, health and even appetite depend on it.
Ceramic
Ceramic bowls are one of the best options. They are heavy and stable, so your cat won't push them across the floor while eating. Ceramics are easy to clean, don't absorb smells and don't change the taste of food or water, and a good glaze stops bacteria from building up.
Average price in the UK:
about £8
about £8
Metal
Stainless steel is another good choice. These bowls are hard-wearing, unbreakable, don't absorb smells and are easy to care for. They are easy to wash without special tools and last for years.
Average price in the UK:
about £6
about £6
Plastic
Plastic bowls are the cheapest, but that's exactly the catch. Plastic has several serious drawbacks:
- Scratches. Over time the surface becomes covered in tiny scratches that trap food and water, an ideal breeding ground for bacteria.
- Smell and taste. Plastic easily absorbs smells and can even give food an unpleasant taste, which may make your cat eat less or refuse the bowl altogether.
- Allergies and acne. In some cats plastic causes allergic reactions: inflammation of the chin and spots (so-called feline acne).
- Durability. Plastic bowls soon look worn, become cloudy and scratched, and need replacing more often.
It's easy to tell when it's time for a bigger bowl:
your cat has to 'chase' food round the edges or bend its head too low;
a whole portion doesn't fit in the bowl;
its whiskers keep touching the sides, and it eats reluctantly.
a whole portion doesn't fit in the bowl;
its whiskers keep touching the sides, and it eats reluctantly.
Wide bowls with low sides are best for adult cats: they let your cat eat and drink without discomfort.
The bowl should suit the size of your pet. Small bowls suit kittens for the first few months. As your cat grows, switch to a roomier bowl: an adult cat is more comfortable with a wide, shallow shape from which it can easily reach food or water without bending its whiskers or rubbing its face.
2
Size and shape
2
Size and shape
The bowl should suit the size of your pet. Small bowls suit kittens for the first few months. As your cat grows, switch to a roomier bowl: an adult cat is more comfortable with a wide, shallow shape from which it can easily reach food or water without bending its whiskers or rubbing its face.
It's easy to tell when it's time for a bigger bowl:
Wide bowls with low sides are best for adult cats: they let your cat eat and drink without discomfort.
- your cat has to 'chase' food round the edges or bend its head too low;
- a whole portion doesn't fit in the bowl;
- its whiskers keep touching the sides, and it eats reluctantly.
Wide bowls with low sides are best for adult cats: they let your cat eat and drink without discomfort.
3
Stability
Choose heavy or rubber-based bowls so that your cat can't move or tip them over while eating. This is especially important for active or playful pets.
4
Number of bowls
A separate water bowl —
water should always be fresh, ideally in a fountain or a heavy bowl.
A separate food bowl —
this reduces the risk of food getting into the water and helps keep things hygienic.
water should always be fresh, ideally in a fountain or a heavy bowl.
A separate food bowl —
this reduces the risk of food getting into the water and helps keep things hygienic.
3
Stability
Choose heavy or rubber-based bowls so that your cat can't move or tip them over while eating. This is especially important for active or playful pets.
4
Number of bowls
A separate water bowl —
water should always be fresh, ideally in a fountain or a heavy bowl.
A separate food bowl —
this reduces the risk of food getting into the water and helps keep things hygienic.
water should always be fresh, ideally in a fountain or a heavy bowl.
A separate food bowl —
this reduces the risk of food getting into the water and helps keep things hygienic.
5
Easy to clean
Bowls should be easy to wash, ideally dishwasher-safe. Regular cleaning prevents bacteria and smells.
6
Extras
If your cat likes water, a fountain with circulating water can encourage it to drink. Bowls with a tray or a non-slip base suit small rooms.
5
Easy to clean
Bowls should be easy to wash, ideally dishwasher-safe. Regular cleaning prevents bacteria and smells.
6
Extras
If your cat likes water, a fountain with circulating water can encourage it to drink. Bowls with a tray or a non-slip base suit small rooms.
Litter tray:
clean, quiet, predictable
Choose a roomy tray so that your cat can turn round and bury its litter; the rule is simple: the tray should be as long as your cat from nose to base of tail, plus another third. A lid and door are optional: some pets need privacy, others want to keep an eye on things. Choose a litter without a strong smell; if you don't know your cat's preferences, start with a neutral clumping litter. Put the tray somewhere quiet but accessible round the clock; a mat next to it catches stray granules. Moving house is an unsettling time, so clean the tray more often at first while keeping a predictable 'clean and familiar' smell.
Litter tray:
clean, quiet, predictable
Choose a roomy tray so that your cat can turn round and bury its litter; the rule is simple: the tray should be as long as your cat from nose to base of tail, plus another third. A lid and door are optional: some pets need privacy, others want to keep an eye on things. Choose a litter without a strong smell; if you don't know your cat's preferences, start with
a neutral clumping litter. Put the tray somewhere quiet but accessible round the clock; a mat next to it catches stray granules. Moving house is an unsettling time, so clean the tray more often at first while keeping a predictable 'clean and familiar' smell.
1
Size and shape
The tray should be roomy enough for your cat to turn round freely and sit in a natural position. Compact models suit kittens; for adult cats choose trays at least 45–50 cm long with high sides, so that the litter doesn't scatter.
1
Size and shape
The tray should be roomy enough for your cat to turn round freely and sit in a natural position. Compact models suit kittens; for adult cats choose trays at least 45–50 cm long with high sides, so that the litter doesn't scatter.
Trays with high sides —
they stop litter scattering, especially with active cats.
Average price in the UK:
about £5–10
about £5–10
Covered trays (with a lid) —
they help keep smells and litter inside and give a sense of privacy, but good ventilation is important
Average price in the UK:
about £15–25
about £15–25
Open trays —
simple and affordable, easy to clean; suit cats that are happy without a lid.
Average price in the UK:
about £5–10
about £5–10
2
Type of tray
The tray should be roomy enough for your cat to turn round freely and sit in a natural position. Compact models suit kittens; for adult cats choose trays at least 45–50 cm long with high sides, so that the litter doesn't scatter.
Open trays —
simple and affordable, easy to clean; suit cats that are happy without a lid.
Average price in the UK:
about £5–10
about £5–10
Trays with high sides —
they stop litter scattering, especially with active cats.
Average price in the UK:
about £5–10
about £5–10
Covered trays (with a lid) —
they help keep smells and litter inside and give a sense of privacy, but good ventilation is important
Average price in the UK:
about £15–25
about £15–25
2
Type of tray
The tray should be roomy enough for your cat to turn round freely and sit in a natural position. Compact models suit kittens; for adult cats choose trays at least 45–50 cm long with high sides, so that the litter doesn't scatter.
3
Easy to clean
Ideally the tray has a removable insert or lid that is easy to clean. Regular cleaning is key to hygiene and to preventing smells.
3
Easy to clean
Ideally the tray has a removable insert or lid that is easy to clean. Regular cleaning is key to hygiene and to preventing smells.
Away from the bowls.
Cats don't like their toilet to be close to where they eat and drink: it goes against their natural instinct for cleanliness. It's best to put the tray in a different part of your home.
Cats don't like their toilet to be close to where they eat and drink: it goes against their natural instinct for cleanliness. It's best to put the tray in a different part of your home.
Several floors, several trays.
If you have a big house or a flat on two levels, it makes sense to put at least one tray on each floor, so that your cat doesn't have to search for a 'more convenient' spot.
If you have a big house or a flat on two levels, it makes sense to put at least one tray on each floor, so that your cat doesn't have to search for a 'more convenient' spot.
The best places for a tray:
A quiet corner.
It's better to put the tray somewhere without constant noise, people walking past or loud appliances (next to the washing machine, for example). Peace and quiet help your cat feel safe.
It's better to put the tray somewhere without constant noise, people walking past or loud appliances (next to the washing machine, for example). Peace and quiet help your cat feel safe.
A corner or alcove.
Places enclosed on two or three sides (a corner of a room or an alcove) give your cat a sense of privacy. This is especially important for shy animals.
Places enclosed on two or three sides (a corner of a room or an alcove) give your cat a sense of privacy. This is especially important for shy animals.
Access 24/7.
Your pet must always be able to reach its toilet. A closed door or restricted access can lead to 'accidents' around the house.
Your pet must always be able to reach its toilet. A closed door or restricted access can lead to 'accidents' around the house.
4
Where to put the tray
The location of your cat's toilet matters as much as the tray and the litter. Cats are clean animals, and if a cat doesn't like the location, it may start looking for an alternative around your home.
4
Where to put the tray
The location of your cat's toilet matters as much as the tray and the litter. Cats are clean animals, and if a cat doesn't like the location, it may start looking for an alternative around your home.
A quiet corner.
It's better to put the tray somewhere without constant noise, people walking past or loud appliances (next to the washing machine, for example). Peace and quiet help your cat feel safe.
It's better to put the tray somewhere without constant noise, people walking past or loud appliances (next to the washing machine, for example). Peace and quiet help your cat feel safe.
A corner or alcove.
Places enclosed on two or three sides (a corner of a room or an alcove) give your cat a sense of privacy. This is especially important for shy animals.
Places enclosed on two or three sides (a corner of a room or an alcove) give your cat a sense of privacy. This is especially important for shy animals.
Access 24/7.
Your pet must always be able to reach its toilet. A closed door or restricted access can lead to 'accidents' around the house.
Your pet must always be able to reach its toilet. A closed door or restricted access can lead to 'accidents' around the house.
Away from the bowls.
Cats don't like their toilet to be close to where they eat and drink: it goes against their natural instinct for cleanliness. It's best to put the tray in a different part of your home.
Cats don't like their toilet to be close to where they eat and drink: it goes against their natural instinct for cleanliness. It's best to put the tray in a different part of your home.
Several floors, several trays.
If you have a big house or a flat on two levels, it makes sense to put at least one tray on each floor, so that your cat doesn't have to search for a 'more convenient' spot.
If you have a big house or a flat on two levels, it makes sense to put at least one tray on each floor, so that your cat doesn't have to search for a 'more convenient' spot.
The best places for a tray:
What to avoid:
Putting the tray right next to a window or balcony door: constant noise from the street can be disturbing.
Putting it near radiators: the smell of the litter gets stronger with heat.
Putting it in hard-to-reach places that are awkward for your cat to get to (behind heavy furniture, for example).
Tip:
watch your cat. It will usually show you where it feels most comfortable, and that is the best place for the tray.
What to avoid:
Putting the tray right next to a window or balcony door: constant noise from the street can be disturbing.
Putting it near radiators: the smell of the litter gets stronger with heat.
Putting it in hard-to-reach places that are awkward for your cat to get to (behind heavy furniture, for example).
5
Extras
A mat next to the tray —
it helps catch stray litter and keep
the room clean.
the room clean.
Average price in the UK:
about £5–15
about £5–15
With several cats, it's recommended to have one tray per cat, plus one extra.
5
Extras
A mat by the tray
helps catch stray litter and keep the room clean.
helps catch stray litter and keep the room clean.
Average price in the UK:
about £5–15
about £5–15
With several cats, it's recommended to have one tray per cat, plus one extra.
6
Types of litter
Easy to clean:
High: clumps are easy to remove.
High: clumps are easy to remove.
Average price in the UK:
about £5–8
about £5–8
Downside:
It's dusty and heavy and can stick to paws.
It's dusty and heavy and can stick to paws.
Advantages: clumps are easy to remove, and it stays clean for a long time.
Suits:
owners who are ready to remove clumps every day.
owners who are ready to remove clumps every day.
Clumping (clay)
Easy to clean:
Medium: the whole tray is usually changed.
Medium: the whole tray is usually changed.
Average price in the UK:
about £5–8
about £5–8
Downside: it needs changing more often and holds smells less well.
Advantages: eco-friendly, natural smell, safe for cats.
Suits:
Owners looking for an affordable and safe option.
Owners looking for an affordable and safe option.
Wood (sawdust, pellets)
Easy to clean:
High: changed less often, but the crystals gradually darken
High: changed less often, but the crystals gradually darken
Average price in the UK:
about £8–12
about £8–12
Downsides: more expensive than other options,
and some cats may not accept it.
and some cats may not accept it.
Advantages: holds smells well,
rarely needs changing.
rarely needs changing.
Suits:
Busy people who don't want to clean the tray every
day.
Busy people who don't want to clean the tray every
day.
Silica gel (crystals)
Easy to clean:
High: it can be flushed down the toilet and cleans quickly.
High: it can be flushed down the toilet and cleans quickly.
Average price in the UK:
about £5–8
about £5–8
Downsides: it's more expensive than wood and sometimes absorbs liquid more slowly.
Advantages: light, dust-free, safe for cats and the environment.
Suits:
Eco-minded owners and sensitive cats.
Eco-minded owners and sensitive cats.
Plant-based (tofu)
Clumping (clay)
Advantages:
clumps are easy to remove, and it stays clean for a long time.
clumps are easy to remove, and it stays clean for a long time.
Downside:
It's dusty and heavy and can stick to paws.
It's dusty and heavy and can stick to paws.
Easy to clean:
High: clumps are easy to remove.
High: clumps are easy to remove.
Average price in the UK:
about £5–8
about £5–8
Suits:
owners who are ready to remove clumps every day.
owners who are ready to remove clumps every day.
Wood (sawdust, pellets)
Advantages:
Eco-friendly, natural smell, safe for cats.
Eco-friendly, natural smell, safe for cats.
Downside:
It needs changing more often and holds smells less well.
It needs changing more often and holds smells less well.
Easy to clean:
Medium: the whole tray is usually changed.
Medium: the whole tray is usually changed.
Average price in the UK:
about £5–8
about £5–8
Suits:
Owners looking for an affordable and safe option.
Owners looking for an affordable and safe option.
Silica gel (crystals)
Advantages:
Holds smells well, rarely needs changing.
Holds smells well, rarely needs changing.
Downside:
More expensive than other options; some cats may not accept it.
More expensive than other options; some cats may not accept it.
Easy to clean:
High: changed less often, but the crystals gradually darken
High: changed less often, but the crystals gradually darken
Average price in the UK:
about £8–12
about £8–12
Suits:
Busy people who don't want to clean the tray every day.
Busy people who don't want to clean the tray every day.
Plant-based (tofu)
Advantages:
Light, dust-free, safe for cats and the environment.
Light, dust-free, safe for cats and the environment.
Downside:
It's more expensive than wood and sometimes absorbs liquid more slowly.
It's more expensive than wood and sometimes absorbs liquid more slowly.
Easy to clean:
High: it can be flushed down the toilet and cleans quickly.
High: it can be flushed down the toilet and cleans quickly.
Average price in the UK:
about £5–8
about £5–8
Suits:
Eco-minded owners and sensitive cats.
Eco-minded owners and sensitive cats.
6
Different types
of litter
of litter
Conclusion:
We don't recommend dusty clay litter.
For eco-friendliness and a natural option: wood or plant-based.
For less frequent cleaning and odour control: silica gel.
Conclusion:
We don't recommend dusty clay litter.
For eco-friendliness and a natural option: wood or plant-based.
For less frequent cleaning and odour control: silica gel.
Claws and play:
how to save your sofa and your nerves
A scratching post isn't a 'bonus' but a necessity. Put it where your cat wakes up and stretches (often near its resting place or on its usual routes). Vertical posts should be stable and taller than your cat at full stretch; horizontal scratchers should be rough rather than slippery.
Play is about releasing energy and reducing anxiety: fishing-rod toys, light balls, interactive toys with timers. Change the 'scenarios' and rotate toys to keep them new.
Play is about releasing energy and reducing anxiety: fishing-rod toys, light balls, interactive toys with timers. Change the 'scenarios' and rotate toys to keep them new.
Claws and play:
how to save your sofa and your nerves
A scratching post isn't a 'bonus' but a necessity. Put it where your cat wakes up and stretches (often near its resting place or on its usual routes). Vertical posts should be stable and taller than your cat at full stretch; horizontal scratchers should be rough rather than slippery.
Play is about releasing energy and reducing anxiety: fishing-rod toys, light balls, interactive toys with timers. Change the 'scenarios' and rotate toys to keep them new.
1
Scratching posts: why and which to choose
A scratching post is essential so that your cat can look after its claws, stretch its muscles and relieve stress.
Average price in the UK:
about £20–100
about £20–100
Height and stability —
choose tall, stable models so that your cat can stretch fully while scratching.
choose tall, stable models so that your cat can stretch fully while scratching.
The material
should be natural sisal, rope or thick carpet: safe and hard-wearing. Avoid soft fabrics that wear out quickly.
should be natural sisal, rope or thick carpet: safe and hard-wearing. Avoid soft fabrics that wear out quickly.
A variety of shapes —
vertical posts, multi-level cat trees, horizontal boards and sloping surfaces all let your cat choose a comfortable way to sharpen its claws.
vertical posts, multi-level cat trees, horizontal boards and sloping surfaces all let your cat choose a comfortable way to sharpen its claws.
1
Scratching posts: why and which to choose
A scratching post is essential so that your cat can look after its claws, stretch its muscles and relieve stress.
Average price in the UK:
about £20–100
about £20–100
Height and stability —
choose tall, stable models so that your cat can stretch fully while scratching.
choose tall, stable models so that your cat can stretch fully while scratching.
The material
should be natural sisal, rope or thick carpet: safe and hard-wearing. Avoid soft fabrics that wear out quickly.
should be natural sisal, rope or thick carpet: safe and hard-wearing. Avoid soft fabrics that wear out quickly.
A variety of shapes: vertical posts, multi-level cat trees, horizontal boards and sloping surfaces all let your cat choose a comfortable way to sharpen its claws.
2
Toys: for physical and mental stimulation
Average price in the UK:
about £2–10
about £2–10
Wands with feathers or soft tips
Example: a fishing-rod toy with a long stick and feathers or a soft fabric mouse on the end. Toys like this stimulate the hunting instinct, encourage play with the owner and let your cat run, jump and pounce.
Example: a fishing-rod toy with a long stick and feathers or a soft fabric mouse on the end. Toys like this stimulate the hunting instinct, encourage play with the owner and let your cat run, jump and pounce.
Balls and soft mice
Examples: small rubber balls, balls with a bell inside, or plush mice. They suit solo play and develop agility and coordination. Your cat can chase them, push them with a paw or toss them in the air.
Examples: small rubber balls, balls with a bell inside, or plush mice. They suit solo play and develop agility and coordination. Your cat can chase them, push them with a paw or toss them in the air.
Interactive toys and puzzles
Examples: plastic balls with holes for treats, mini mazes or food-dispensing toys. They develop your cat's intelligence, make feeding more interesting and slow down eating,
which is especially useful for cats that eat too fast.
Examples: plastic balls with holes for treats, mini mazes or food-dispensing toys. They develop your cat's intelligence, make feeding more interesting and slow down eating,
which is especially useful for cats that eat too fast.
Toys help your cat stay active, develop hunting skills and prevent boredom. The right choice of toys depends on your cat's age, character and activity level.
2
Toys: for physical and mental stimulation
Toys help your cat stay active, develop hunting skills and prevent boredom. The right choice of toys depends on your cat's age, character and activity level.
Average price in the UK:
about £2–10
about £2–10
Wands with feathers or soft tips
Example: a fishing-rod toy with a long stick and feathers or a soft fabric mouse on the end. Toys like this stimulate the hunting instinct, encourage play with the owner and let your cat run, jump and pounce.
Example: a fishing-rod toy with a long stick and feathers or a soft fabric mouse on the end. Toys like this stimulate the hunting instinct, encourage play with the owner and let your cat run, jump and pounce.
Balls and soft mice
Examples: small rubber balls, balls with a bell inside, or plush mice. They suit solo play and develop agility and coordination. Your cat can chase them, push them with a paw or toss them in the air.
Examples: small rubber balls, balls with a bell inside, or plush mice. They suit solo play and develop agility and coordination. Your cat can chase them, push them with a paw or toss them in the air.
Interactive toys and puzzles
Examples: plastic balls with holes for treats, mini mazes or food-dispensing toys. They develop your cat's intelligence, make feeding more interesting and slow down eating, which is especially useful for cats that eat too fast.
Examples: plastic balls with holes for treats, mini mazes or food-dispensing toys. They develop your cat's intelligence, make feeding more interesting and slow down eating, which is especially useful for cats that eat too fast.
Tip:
Choose a variety of toys so that your cat can combine active games with mental tasks. Swap toys from time to time to keep its interest.
Tip:
Choose a variety of toys so that your cat can combine active games with mental tasks. Swap toys from time to time to keep its interest.
3
Safety and quality
Toys must not have sharp parts, small detachable pieces or toxic materials. Check toys regularly to avoid your cat swallowing small parts.
4
Placement and access
Put scratching posts and toys where your cat spends most time: near windows, favourite beds or play areas. This helps your cat stay active and reduces the risk of damage to furniture.
5
Mix and refresh
It's best to have several scratching posts of different shapes and materials, and to swap toys regularly or give them in rotation so that your cat stays interested.
3
Safety and quality
Toys must not have sharp parts, small detachable pieces or toxic materials. Check toys regularly to avoid your cat swallowing small parts.
4
Placement and access
Put scratching posts and toys where your cat spends most time: near windows, favourite beds or play areas. This helps your cat stay active and reduces the risk of damage to furniture.
5
Mix and refresh
It's best to have several scratching posts of different shapes and materials, and to swap toys regularly or give them in rotation so that your cat stays interested.
Grooming
and first aid kit:
and first aid kit:
Just the basics
Choose a brush or de-shedding tool to suit your cat's coat, and nail clippers of a type you feel comfortable using (guillotine or scissor type). Soft wipes for paws and eyes are enough for hygiene. A first aid kit should include bandages, a digital thermometer, chlorhexidine for the skin (not for mucous membranes) and a few needle-free syringes for giving water or a solution if needed.
Don't buy medicines 'just in case': your vet prescribes them for a specific problem.
Don't buy medicines 'just in case': your vet prescribes them for a specific problem.
Grooming and first aid kit:
Just the basics
Choose a brush or de-shedding tool to suit your cat's coat, and nail clippers of a type you feel comfortable using (guillotine or scissor type). Soft wipes for paws and eyes are enough for hygiene. A first aid kit should include bandages, a digital thermometer, chlorhexidine for the skin (not for mucous membranes) and a few needle-free syringes for giving water or a solution if needed.
Don't buy medicines 'just in case': your vet prescribes them for a specific problem.
A brush or de-shedding tool is
chosen to suit the coat: short, medium or long. Regular brushing reduces shedding and prevents mats.
chosen to suit the coat: short, medium or long. Regular brushing reduces shedding and prevents mats.
Nail clippers help keep claws at a safe length and prevent damage to furniture.
Nail clippers help keep your cat's claws at the right length and prevent damage to furniture and accidental scratches on your skin.
1
Coat and claw care
Average price in the UK:
about £15–30.
about £15–30.
1
Coat and claw care
Average price in the UK:
about £15–30.
about £15–30.
A brush or de-shedding tool is chosen to suit the coat: short, medium or long. Regular brushing reduces shedding and prevents mats.
Nail clippers help keep claws at a safe length and prevent damage to furniture.
Nail clippers help keep your cat's claws at the right length and prevent damage to furniture and accidental scratches on your skin.
How to trim claws properly:
1
Choose the right tool.
It's better to use special clippers (guillotine type or scissors with a safety guard). Ordinary nail scissors are not suitable: they can split the claws.
It's better to use special clippers (guillotine type or scissors with a safety guard). Ordinary nail scissors are not suitable: they can split the claws.
2
Prepare your cat.
Before you start, calm your pet, stroke it and let it sniff the tool. Short, calm sessions are better than trying to trim all the claws at once.
Before you start, calm your pet, stroke it and let it sniff the tool. Short, calm sessions are better than trying to trim all the claws at once.
3
Find where to cut.
Look for the pink part of the claw, the 'quick', which contains blood vessels. Trim only the clear tip, avoiding the quick, so as not to cause pain and bleeding.
Look for the pink part of the claw, the 'quick', which contains blood vessels. Trim only the clear tip, avoiding the quick, so as not to cause pain and bleeding.
4
Hold the paw firmly.
Gently press the paw pad so that the claw extends, and cut straight across the tip.
Gently press the paw pad so that the claw extends, and cut straight across the tip.
5
Reward and praise
After trimming, praise your cat and give it a treat or a short game. This builds a positive association with the procedure.
After trimming, praise your cat and give it a treat or a short game. This builds a positive association with the procedure.
How to trim claws properly:
Choose the right tool.
It's better to use special clippers (guillotine type or scissors with a safety guard). Ordinary nail scissors are not suitable: they can split the claws.
It's better to use special clippers (guillotine type or scissors with a safety guard). Ordinary nail scissors are not suitable: they can split the claws.
Prepare your cat.
Before you start, calm your pet, stroke it and let it sniff the tool. Short, calm sessions are better than trying to trim all the claws at once.
Before you start, calm your pet, stroke it and let it sniff the tool. Short, calm sessions are better than trying to trim all the claws at once.
Find where to cut.
Look for the pink part of the claw, the 'quick', which contains blood vessels. Trim only the clear tip, avoiding the quick, so as not to cause pain and bleeding.
Look for the pink part of the claw, the 'quick', which contains blood vessels. Trim only the clear tip, avoiding the quick, so as not to cause pain and bleeding.
Hold the paw firmly.
Gently press the paw pad so that the claw extends, and cut straight across the tip.
Gently press the paw pad so that the claw extends, and cut straight across the tip.
Reward and praise
After trimming, praise your cat and give it a treat or a short game. This builds a positive association with the procedure.
After trimming, praise your cat and give it a treat or a short game. This builds a positive association with the procedure.
5
4
3
2
1
Tip:
with kittens it's better to start trimming claws in the first few months so that they get used to it. An adult cat's claws can be trimmed every 2–3 weeks, depending on how active it is and how quickly the claws wear down.
Tip:
with kittens it's better to start trimming claws in the first few months so that they get used to it. An adult cat's claws can be trimmed every 2–3 weeks, depending on how active it is and how quickly the claws wear down.
2
First aid kit for minor problems at home
Regular prevention
Regular parasite treatment, weight control and cleaning the ears and eyes are simple steps that help avoid many health problems in your cat.
A thermometer for checking temperature if your cat is unwell.
An antiseptic (such as chlorhexidine) —
for treating small scratches or cuts.
for treating small scratches or cuts.
Bandages, wipes, needle-free
syringes —
for basic care and, if needed, giving medicines.
syringes —
for basic care and, if needed, giving medicines.
2
First aid kit for minor problems at home
A thermometer —
for checking temperature if your cat is unwell.
for checking temperature if your cat is unwell.
An antiseptic (such as chlorhexidine) —
for treating small scratches or cuts.
for treating small scratches or cuts.
Bandages, wipes, needle-free syringes —
for basic care and, if needed, giving medicines.
for basic care and, if needed, giving medicines.
Regular prevention
Regular parasite treatment, weight control and cleaning the ears and eyes are simple steps that help avoid many health problems in your cat.
Imagine the first day through your cat's eyes: is there a quiet, secluded corner where it can wait things out? Is it obvious where the toilet is, and is it safe to go there? Is fresh water available, is there somewhere to sharpen its claws, and can it 'be itself' without being told off? If the answer to all these questions is 'yes', you're ready. The rest comes down to habits, routines and attention.
How to tell your cat is happy with its 'staff'
How can you tell your cat isn't happy with its tray or litter, and change it without a battle?
The signs are usually subtle: your cat treads around in the tray for a long time, jumps out nervously, scratches the floor next to it, wees just by the entrance or starts taking longer than usual. This isn't 'naughtiness' but feedback. Don't change everything at once: leave the old tray where it is, put a second one with the new litter next to it and let your cat choose. Then, over 7–10 days, increase the share of the new one. If the problem is the location rather than the material, simply moving the tray to a quieter spot and adding a mat that muffles the rustle of granules will help.
Do I need a fountain, or is the 'right' bowl enough?
A fountain suits cats that drink little, eat dry food or love running water. But it isn't a miracle cure: for many cats a heavy, wide bowl placed away from the food is enough (many cats like food and water to be separate). The criteria for water are simple: freshness (change it every day), width (so the whiskers don't touch the sides) and a stable location (cats are creatures of habit).
'Whisker fatigue': myth or reality? And which bowls should you choose so that your cat's whiskers don't suffer?
Many cats really do find deep, narrow bowls uncomfortable: whiskers are sensory organs, and constant pressure is irritating. The answer is wide, shallow bowls with a smooth rim (ceramic or metal), and for water a shallow, wide dish or a fountain with a wide surface. If your cat scoops food out with its paw, it isn't being fussy: it's trying to eat without squashing its whiskers.
How do you get your cat used to its carrier so that trips to the vet aren't a disaster?
Make the carrier part of the 'furniture' rather than a symbol of the clinic. Keep it open at home all the time, put a familiar blanket inside and regularly give treats inside it. Then take small steps: closed for 5 seconds and let out; a ride in the lift and back; a short walk round the block, then home and a treat. On the day itself, put an absorbent pad and something that smells of home inside. In the car, secure the carrier with a seat belt; you can cover it with a light towel: fewer stimuli, less stress.
My cat scratches the sofa even though it has a scratching post. What's wrong, and how can I save the furniture?
The most common mistakes are location and height. The scratching post should stand where your cat wakes up and stretches (often near the sofa). It should be at least as tall as your cat standing on its hind legs and as stable as a pillar. Add a horizontal board if your cat likes to scratch flat surfaces, and protect the corner of the sofa with clear guards while it learns. Lead your cat to the post with a fishing-rod toy and praise it when it uses it; once every week or two, renew its interest with catnip or valerian (if your cat reacts to them).
Imagine the first day through your cat's eyes: is there a quiet, secluded corner where it can wait things out? Is it obvious where the toilet is, and is it safe to go there? Is fresh water available, is there somewhere to sharpen its claws, and can it 'be itself' without being told off? If the answer to all these questions is 'yes', you're ready. The rest comes down to habits, routines and attention.
How to tell your cat is happy with its 'staff'
How can you tell your cat isn't happy with its tray or litter, and change it without a battle?
The signs are usually subtle: your cat treads around in the tray for a long time, jumps out nervously, scratches the floor next to it, wees just by the entrance or starts taking longer than usual. This isn't 'naughtiness' but feedback. Don't change everything at once: leave the old tray where it is, put a second one with the new litter next to it and let your cat choose. Then, over 7–10 days, increase the share of the new one. If the problem is the location rather than the material, simply moving the tray to a quieter spot and adding a mat that muffles the rustle of granules will help.
Do I need a fountain, or is the 'right' bowl enough?
A fountain suits cats that drink little, eat dry food or love running water. But it isn't a miracle cure: for many cats a heavy, wide bowl placed away from the food is enough (many cats like food and water to be separate). The criteria for water are simple: freshness (change it every day), width (so the whiskers don't touch the sides) and a stable location (cats are creatures of habit).
'Whisker fatigue': myth or reality? And which bowls should you choose so that your cat's whiskers don't suffer?
Many cats really do find deep, narrow bowls uncomfortable: whiskers are sensory organs, and constant pressure is irritating. The answer is wide, shallow bowls with a smooth rim (ceramic or metal), and for water a shallow, wide dish or a fountain with a wide surface. If your cat scoops food out with its paw, it isn't being fussy: it's trying to eat without squashing its whiskers.
How do you get your cat used to its carrier so that trips to the vet aren't a disaster?
Make the carrier part of the 'furniture' rather than a symbol of the clinic. Keep it open at home all the time, put a familiar blanket inside and regularly give treats inside it. Then take small steps: closed for 5 seconds and let out; a ride in the lift and back; a short walk round the block, then home and a treat. On the day itself, put an absorbent pad and something that smells of home inside. In the car, secure the carrier with a seat belt; you can cover it with a light towel: fewer stimuli, less stress.
My cat scratches the sofa even though it has a scratching post. What's wrong, and how can I save the furniture?
The most common mistakes are location and height. The scratching post should stand where your cat wakes up and stretches (often near the sofa). It should be at least as tall as your cat standing on its hind legs and as stable as a pillar. Add a horizontal board if your cat likes to scratch flat surfaces, and protect the corner of the sofa with clear guards while it learns. Lead your cat to the post with a fishing-rod toy and praise it when it uses it; once every week or two, renew its interest with catnip or valerian (if your cat reacts to them).